Training Articles

Finger strength

Beastmaker 1000 Warm-Up: Safe Start for 5 to 7b Climbers

Beastmaker 1000 Warm-Up: Safe Start for 5 to 7b Climbers

A progressive warm-up protocol on the Beastmaker 1000 for climbers from 5 to 7b. This routine, recommended by Egor Kryachkov, helps prepare your fingers and ligaments for load without overstraining. Ideal for consistent use before every session.

Beastmaker 2000 Warm-Up: Safe Start for 6b to 8b Climbers
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Beastmaker 2000 Warm-Up: Safe Start for 6b to 8b Climbers

A progressive warm-up protocol on the Beastmaker 2000 for climbers from 6b to 8b. This routine, recommended by Egor Kryachkov, helps prepare your fingers and ligaments for load without overstraining. Ideal for consistent use before every session.

Half Crimp Protocol: Safe & Strong Finger Training for Climbers
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Half Crimp Protocol: Safe & Strong Finger Training for Climbers

complete training protocol for the half crimp grip — the most useful and risky grip in climbing. Learn how to safely increase finger strength without injuries using evidence-based progressions, proper testing, and recovery strategies.

Pinch Protocol: Safe & Strong Finger Training for Climbers
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Pinch Protocol: Safe & Strong Finger Training for Climbers

A complete pinch grip training system designed for climbers who want to increase finger strength while minimizing injury risk. This course focuses on safe, ground-based pinch lifts rather than hangs, allowing for easier load tracking and joint protection.

Tendon Strength for Climbers: Flexor Digitorum Training & Injury Prevention
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Tendon Strength for Climbers: Flexor Digitorum Training & Injury Prevention

A focused protocol for strengthening the Flexor Digitorum Profundus tendons and preventing long-term overuse injuries. Ideal for climbers who want to increase finger durability and reduce injury risk from asynchronous muscle-tendon adaptation.

Campus Board

Campus Board Training: Strength, Power & Risk Management
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Campus Board Training: Strength, Power & Risk Management

Build elite finger strength, explosive power, and endurance with a structured campus board program. This course includes progressive workouts, a readiness test, and detailed guidance on technique, warm-up, and injury prevention. You'll learn when and how to use the campus board to improve performance — and when to avoid it.

General Strength

GPE for Climbers: Build Strength & Avoid Injury
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GPE for Climbers: Build Strength & Avoid Injury

This course introduces General Physical Exercises (GPE) tailored for beginner climbers (up to 6b/V4). Learn how to add strength training to your routine safely and efficiently without overtraining or risking injury.

One-Arm Pull-Up: Full Progression from 0 to 1
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One-Arm Pull-Up: Full Progression from 0 to 1

A practical course that guides you from 0 to your first one-arm pull-up. Designed for climbers and athletes of all levels, the program includes detailed progressions: from assisted pull-ups with bands or machines to 90° holds, endurance work, weighted pull-ups, and negative reps

Stretching

Hip Mobility: Assessment and Training Plan
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Hip Mobility: Assessment and Training Plan

Flexibility Test for Climbers: How to Choose the Optimal Training Protocol Learn about the Craig test for assessing internal and external hip rotation, as well as the Z-position, Butterfly, and Frog pose tests. Includes detailed exercise descriptions, safety guidelines, and a structured training plan for both beginners and advanced climbers.

Rehabilitation

Injury-Proof Climbing: Basic Rehab Protocol
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Injury-Proof Climbing: Basic Rehab Protocol

A focused rehab course for climbers to fix muscle imbalances, strengthen underused muscles like forearm extensors, and reduce injury risk. Designed to fit into your weekly routine, this protocol helps you climb stronger, recover faster, and prevent setbacks. Includes stretching tips and proven strategies used by elite climbers.

Other

Skin Care in Climbing: The Underrated Key to Performance

Skin Care in Climbing: The Underrated Key to Performance

Skin care is one of the most overlooked yet crucial aspects of climbing. While most focus on training plans or finger strength, few realize how much the quality of your skin impacts performance, recovery, and injury prevention. This guide shares practical tips based on real climbing experience—tailored to different skin types, conditions, and hold textures. Learn how to manage sweaty or dry skin, reduce injuries like splits and flappers, and make the most of every session. Topics covered include: Daily hydration and its impact on skin elasticity and sweating Cleaning and moisturizing strategies for fast skin recovery The right use of skin antiperspirants like Rhino Skin or Antihydral How diet influences skin and sweat production Tools like portable fans, liquid chalk, and choosing the right chalk type Written by climber and coach Grigorii Pestov, this course helps you treat your skin like the performance tool it is — so you can climb smarter, stronger, and with more confidence.

Stability

Stability for Climbers: Balance, Control & Coordination
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Stability for Climbers: Balance, Control & Coordination

Climbing Stability Training: Develop balance, coordination, and precise body control with this step-by-step progression. This course includes 12 workouts designed to improve your ability to stay stable on the wall, land softly during jumps, and avoid unnecessary muscle compensation. Strengthen your joints and movement patterns to boost performance and prevent falls. Ideal for climbers of all levels looking to enhance body awareness and fluidity of motion.